Spring comes late to the high mountains of Utah. Though the valleys have been sweltering in 90-degree plus heat for weeks, the snow has just disappeared and spring has finally arrived on the mountain tops.
Because of Utah's unique topography, wildflowers are in bloom somewhere almost every month of the year. Whether it is the desire to leave the sweltering cities and towns or the desire to see the unique, highly colored blossoms, now is a great time to take a wildflower tour. In spite of the drought, flowers are spectacular. Spring flowers are above 8,500 feet while summer flowers are prevalent at lower elevations.Four outstanding wildflower tours include the Wasatch Mountains east of Salt Lake City, the Alpine Loop Road above American Fork Canyon, Highway 89 through Logan Canyon and the Mirror Lake Highway. Other noteworthy drives are the north slope of the Uintas, the Nebo Loop Road above Nephi, the La Sal Mountain Loop Road and Great Basin National Park. Boulder Mountain Highway, Cedar Breaks National Monument via Brian Head and either of the Skyline Drives through Farmington Canyon or Fairview Canyon are also beautiful and refreshing trips.
In spite of their lush appearance and the abundance of countless flowers, these wildflower areas are fragile. Leave the flowers for others to enjoy and never dig flowers or attempt to move them. They seldom transplant well and damage to alpine areas remains for years because of the short growing season. Enjoy these flowers by taking one of these beautiful drives through the mountains.
Some suggested itineraries:
- The Wasatch Mountains east of Salt Lake City include the Cottonwood peaks with elevations up to 11,300 feet. These fascinating mountains contain many different plant zones that produce highly diverse groups of wildflowers. The short distance on U-152 between the mouth of Big Cottonwood Canyon and Brighton Basin traverses several different climactic zones ranging from near-desert to alpine. The drive to the top of thecanyon has an alpine grandeur that few areas close to major cities have anywhere in the United States. With an elevation of 8,700 feet, Brighton Basin has beautiful wildflowers right now. Continue to the top of Guardsman Pass at an elevation of 9,800 feet. From there go either to Park City or Heber City. The driving tour includes the showy pink flowers of fireweed. Fireweed gets its name because it invades areas destroyed by fire or otherwise disturbed. Look for it along road cuts, ski runs and stream channels. On the dry, west-facing slopes grow wild roses, red and orange Indian paintbrush, Western coneflower and yarrow. This year there is an abundant bloom of the spectacular blue Wasatch penstemon. Bluebells and Jacob's ladder round out these areas. In the driest areas look for the yellow stonecrop, a native sedum that thrives in drier sites.
The view out the car window is beautiful but a trip up Brighton Lakes Trail takes you to some of the prettiest lake country in the mountains. The Brighton Nature Trail hike makes a quarter-mile loop and identifies selected wildflowers. It begins behind Brighton Ski Resort Lodge and continues 1.5 miles to Lake Mary. Lake Martha is another 1/2 mile along the trail and within another mile you come to Lake Catherine. Lake Catherine is bordered by a meadow on the north and the rocky slopes of high mountain peaks on the south. Wildflowers are abundant.
For a double treat, hike another 1/2 mile to Catherine Pass, then descend 11/2 miles to Albion Basin in Little Cottonwood Canyon. You can also get to Albion Basin by car by driving up Little Cottonwood Canyon. This basin offers some of the most spectacular wildflower displays seen anywhere in Utah. The alpine and sub-alpine environments make right now an ideal time for viewing wildflowers.
Albion Basin is 21/2 miles beyond Alta on unpaved road. The road is dusty but accessible by passenger car. In the basin you will find rock penstemon, diamond leaf saxifrage and the beautiful but uncommon Perry's primrose. Blue flowers include forget-me-nots, bluebells and lupine. You'll also find valerian, lemon drops, fleabane daisies and windflowers. Look for some of these flowers along the edges of the few remaining snowbanks.
- The higher mountain areas of Millcreek Canyon also have beautiful wildflowers at this time of year. Drive up Millcreek Canyon to the end of the road. There, a large parking lot gives access to diverse locations including Big Water, Little Water and Upper Millcreek. These hikes range from 2.5 to 5 miles round-trip and traverse some beautiful wildflower country.
- The Alpine Loop Road shows some of Utah's scenery at its best. Many readers have traveled the area to see spectacular displays of colored aspen and maple leaves in the fall, but a summer drive reveals wildflowers of all sizes, colors and shapes.
- Mount Timpanogos rises some 11,500 feet in the center of the loop and its sheer cliff faces and ridges shelter hidden canyons and gullies. Perpetual snow gives rise to early spring flowers right now. Start the route by traveling up American Fork Canyon past Timpanogos National Monument. Continue up the canyon on Utah Highway 91. The narrow and winding Alpine Loop limits parking on the roadside but in areas where parking is allowed a stroll into the alpine meadows offers rich rewards of floral displays. The Alpine Loop road will turn to Cascade Springs. These beautiful, crystal clear springs emerge amidst lush alpine vegetation and flow down through travertine terraces. The springs produce more than seven million gallons of water a day and are developed for viewing via boardwalks and short trails. The flower display here is beautiful and includes many wetland flowers such as bog orchids, monkey flowers and monkshood. Other wet areas produce Jacob's ladder, blue gentian or the robust cow parsnip with flowers that resemble carrot tops.
- Take the road back to the Alpine Loop and continue toward Sundance Resort. There are several campgrounds and picnic areas. The hike to the summit of Timpanogos is strenuous, so start early if you plan to take trails to the summit. Continue driving through Sundance and stop at the Sundance Nature Trail. This trail through forests of maple, oak and aspen leads to the base of 600-foot Stewart Falls. There are signs identifying plants and trees used by the pioneers and Indians. The hike is about 3 miles round trip and takes about three hours. Continue on Highway 189 to Heber City or Provo.
- Another beautiful wildflower drive is up Highway 89 through Logan Canyon. Logan Canyon is cooler than other areas and so some beautiful mountain flowers are at lower elevations. Of particular interest is the Tony Grove Lake recreation area. Reach it by turning off the highway approximately 20 miles up the canyon. This 7-mile drive reaches a beautiful blue alpine lake surrounded by lush meadows. An easy, self-guided nature tour circles clockwise around the lake. Pick up a brochure near the end of the road.
- At the summit near Bear Lake, some 30 miles from the mouth of the canyon, you reach an elevation of 7,800 feet. A short nature hike at the summit reaches some beautiful wildflowers. About 1 mile along the trail is a massive limber pine 25 feet in circumference and nearly 50 feet high. It was originally thought to be the oldest limber pine in existence but is actually five different trees that have grown together, with an age of about 600 years. Some choice flowers here will be the golden columbine and white geranium. Shooting stars and bittercress also will grow in abundance. Besides the beautiful wildflowers, the trail provides some high-level views of Bear Lake and the surrounding environment.
- Another beautiful wildflower drive is State Highway 115 from Kamas to Mirror Lake. This popular mountain road climbs through wooded terrain with a remarkable variety of vegetation. Beaver Creek Natural Arboretum starts 6 miles from Kamas and continues for 9 more miles. It contains many different kinds of trees, shrubs and wildflowers. This highway is not open until mid-June and spring has just come at the higher elevations. Alpine lakes provide beautiful displays of the native yellow pond lily. In addition, many wetland flowers grow near the lakes. The road continues 50 miles through Wasatch National Forest and after leaving the national forest goes 30 miles to Evanston.
For a quick, relaxing and enjoyable getaway, spend a day or a week enjoying the bounties of Mother Nature. Driving tours are cool and colorful and are enhanced by the short hikes suggested. Or choose other directions to see the beautiful wildflowers of the Intermountain area.
- Larry Sagers is a horticulturist with Utah State University Extension Service.