Among the many things that I am thankful for this holiday season are my food-loving friends who keep me posted on the latest restaurant openings around town. Their insight and suggestions fuel my constant quest for new places each week.
Even before sitting down for an early morning breakfast with a confidante with whom I share a lot of life's ups and downs, I had the names of two new eateries in the downtown area that feature Italian food. While we may not have solved some of the puzzles of maintaining complex relationships, (e.g., survival with a feisty 15-year-old offspring or communiques with an old flame), I was satisfied to have discovered new places that would offer a diversion from the vicissitudes of human existence. And, after all, isn't that one of the purposes restaurants and dining out play in today's world?We chose the Caffe Molise as our first destination, due in part to a phone call to the other establishment, which described the cuisine as "eye-talian." We will wait until an evening menu and some linguistic polishing are in place before visiting.
But there is little doubt that everything is in place with Caffe Molise, though open barely six weeks. The simply appointed interior features several slices of urban modern art, including a large, colorful abstract montage. Low-key jazz echoes off the high ceilings and bare brick walls. A window facing the street frames the various figures that wander downtown Salt Lake, from chic to vagrant.
For much of our meal we could not help but feel we had been transported out of Salt Lake City into New York's upper West Side or Greenwich Village. It would be the kind of place for the continuing conversations one has about some of life's dilemmas or at least the backdrop for a Woody Allen short story. Our confident waiter, while admitting to having worked in other local eateries, also added: "I've done a lot of social work around town."
But the temptations to engage in discussions of one's neuroses were quickly sublimated in favor of perusing a menu that features a pleasantly appealing array of Italian specialties. We were told that one of the co-owners had worked at Confetti, a restaurant that permanently altered local perceptions of Italian cuisine. The name is derived from a region in central Italy where the other partner has family ties.
Two of the appetizers were in line with our expectations. The bruschetta ($2.95), toasted bread slices aromatic with garlic and drizzled with olive oil, was served with an herbed white bean puree. While the herb accents were muted, the dip was nonetheless very good when spread on the bread. The polenta ($3.95), buttery roasted corn cake topped with rich marinara sauce and grated cheese, was served perfectly heated and robust in flavor.
The salad was an appropriate vinegar-dressed array of tender red lettuce and endive; strong but a nice foil for the palate. The white bean soup was surprisingly bland, even devoid of traditional Tuscan herbs and ground pepper. The small loaf of dense, crusty Italian bread was very good, though warmed on the outside and cool in the middle.
The flatness of the soup was a marked contrast to the spicy lasagne ($7.95), layers of creamy ricotta, pasta and ground hot sausage. Any sweetness or nuance with the tomato sauce was lost in the heat of the dish. The gamberi alla Molisana ($10.95) was eight tender prawns served in a skillet with a buttery sauce of olive oil, crushed red chiles, garlic and, according to the menu, fresh oregano. While the chiles added a distinguishing flavor, the oregano was barely discernable and the dish was served lukewarm. It came with a side order of roasted red potatoes and sauteed green beans and bits of red pepper. The green beans were flavorful but a bit overdone. Entrees come with a choice of soup or salad.
A tiramisu dessert advertised on the blackboard menu was replaced by a singular choice of cannoli, a dessert I'm not overly fond of regardless of the establishment. The crunchy pastry tube was filled with a sweet ricotta filling and sprinkled with grated chocolate. It was adequate.
Other items on the menu include several antipasto salads, each around $5; melanzana parmigiani ($7.95), eggplant layered with marinara and cheese; salisicca ($7.95), spicy sausage sauteed with peppers and onions; pollo piccata or Marsala (each $9.95); spiedini di polla ($10.95), pieces of chicken wrapped in prosciutto and skewered with chunks of bread and fresh rosemary; tagliata con olive ($10.95), tenderloin seared and served with chopped olives, mushrooms and herbs; several pasta dishes including imported vermicelli with meatballs, manicotti, sandwiches including a polpetta or meatball sandwich ($5.95). The pasta special was a spinach fettucine with mussels.
Caffe Molise has the potential to transport its diners to a different, even more sophisticated culinary plateau. Its ambience and the promise of its appetizing bill of fare certainly set the stage; it just fell a little short during out recent visit.
Rating: * * *
Caffe Molise, 55 W. 100 South, 364-8833. Lunch served Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. until 3 p.m.; dinner Tuesday through Saturday, 6 until 10 p.m. Delivery in the downtown area; parking validated at First South and Main. Reservations recommended on the weekend. Accepts checks with guarantee card and major credit card.